For Sarah-Jane and her partner, children in tow, the trip started in Darwin before taking a loose turn west towards Broome.
Images by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
Images by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
_______________________________
The capital of Australia's sparsely-populated Northern Territory and a former frontier outpost, this is the northernmost, wettest and smallest of the Australian capital cities. This is the gateway to Kakadu National Park, and also a port of call for backpacker country. Named after Charles Darwin, it has been built and rebuilt almost from scratch four times over, due to natural disasters (several potent cyclones) or man-made ones (Japanese air raids during WWII). It's a particular, fascinating place. Retirees, hippies and young tourists congregate in bars along the harbourfronts downing pints while watching the spectacular lightning storms during the wet season, or at Mindil Beach Sunset Market during the dry season. Due to its proximity to South-East Asia, you'll also notice a robust Asian influence - a visit to the Parap Village Markets will make you feel like you've been plucked straight out of Thailand or Indonesia.
Image by Sarah-Jane Clarke
Driving through Gibb River, it doesn't really matter which way you go; west to east or east to west, the road slowly reveals its wonders, lazy peeling through its relentless film of dust. The area is quite busy these days, not as daunting or remote as it once was in simpler times when exploring the region required a certain sense of bravado. Now, a steady stream of 4WDs and grey-haired nomads make their way along the track, counting blessings and stars in their sun-bleached, weather-battered gear.
No particular skill is really required to drive the Gibb River Road, except knowing how to change a tyre, and perhaps a shred of mental resilience necessary to brave the wild (or to leave the comforts of the city, at the very least). If you didn't pack your own sense of mindfulness or mental pliability, don't worry: at the Gibb River, this specific headspace will eventually find you and hit you square in the face, whether you like it or not. It is essential to keep going forward, and to - horror of horrors, be flexible. At such places, life unfolds, and it is guaranteed that at least some plans will go out the window. One thing to keep in mind though is you can't travel through during Monsoon season, so you must wait for the dry season to cross it, the best time peaking around July.
_______________________________
Image by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
Find a welcome respite from the dust at the Emma Gorge Resort at El Questro - hidden within the Cockburn Ranges, this little oasis of tented cabins and shaded pathways will undoubtedly add a little comfort to your adventure. Complete with a pool and a restaurant, it's the perfect pit-stop along the way.
Stay in the Station Bungalows and enjoy the excellent tour desk and fun activities like Barra fishing, hiking, swimming and horse riding.
Images by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
Image by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
A naturalist's paradise, Mornington Wilderness Camp is located at the eponymous Wildlife Sanctuary in the heart of the Kimberley. Featuring acres of spectacular landscapes - from incredible gorges to stretches of tropical savannah - the Mornington Wilderness Camp is a great, comfortable base to explore the region. With so much to do and plenty of incredible nature to see, four nights here go by in a blink. Stay in the camping ground by the river (spots are limited so book in advance) or in the tented cabins (expensive, but worth it). The restaurant also provides delicious breakfast, picnic lunches and an excellent 3-course dinner. The top experience in the area? Pack a picnic and canoe up the gorge for a sandwich and a swim in a perfect, tick-off-the-bucket-list location. Finish off with a helicopter ride over the canyon for an unforgettable, mesmerising experience.
Image by Sarah-Jane Clarke's family.
Make sure to stop to marvel at the Boab trees, famous in the region for their swollen trunks, sometimes spanning five meters in diameter. Even though a few of these majestic trees can be spotted in parts of Queensland and NSW, they are a feature of the Kimberley and NT landscape, and can only be seen outside from Australia in Madagascar, mainland Africa and the Arabian peninsula.
Image by Sarah-Jane Clarke's family.
Image by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
Bathe only when you find a patch of clear crystal water, under the magical swing of the trees.
The best parts about the trip are the light and the colour, the dramatic landscapes, the swims in the gorges threading through shimmering waters that dance in the baking hot afternoon sun. Spotting freshwater crocs at a distance during the day or, come evening time, watching an endless blanket of stars envelop the vastness of the landscape both feel like memories to treasure forever. The best part, however, is embracing a more straightforward way of life: walking barefoot in the mud, hanging the washing on a line haphazardly tied on a tree, sitting on a rock by a creek and watching the sunset, face caked with dirt, wide eyes, smiles bright and full. It's a trip that eschews any excesses but celebrates the little luxuries. It's roughing it up in campsites without hot water, and snuggling on a warm jumper at night (it does get very cold once the sun sets, pack jumper and socks to sleep in). It's sleeping in the 'penthouse suite' on the car roof or stretching oneself in out the open by the fire. It's surrendering to the dust.
For the more practical souls, a little planning goes a long way: from either end of the journey you can pick up a 4WD complete with all camping requirements - tent, chairs, stretchers, cooking utensils. A big food shop, spare petrol and an abundance of water are essential before embarking on your red road adventure. We also suggest asking a caterer to pack three prepared meals and a cheese platter (why not?) - it's always nice knowing there are little pockets of indulgence to look forward to.
_______________________________
An outpost city famous for pearling, Broome is a beach resort town in Western Australia sitting along 22km of pristine Indian Ocean coastline. White sands abound for moments of relaxation, while nearby, dinosaur tracks revealed in the red rocks during low tide awaken the explorer spirit. Famous for its jaw-dropping end-of-day vistas, people from all walks of life enjoy taking their cars and blankets to Cable Beach, and set up camp for the most spectacular sunsets the Kimberley region has to offer.
Image by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
Fishing Co-op, image by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
Sarah-Jane at Short Street Gallery, Broome.
Detail from Mabel Juli artwork at Short Street Gallery, Shell House - both in Broome.
Images by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
For Sarah-Jane and her family, the adventure came to a close 14 days after its start, all fresh from a digital detox in its most real sense. Meeting indigenous communities and fellow travellers along the way, one gets a taste of connecting to communities, and to the earth that binds our country together. Tying the experience in a final bow, the helicopter flight over the Mornington wilderness provided the most visibly lasting, genuinely incredible memory - from the earth to the sky, on the road and far, far beyond.
]]>
Morocco is a gateway to Africa, peppered with natural and human-made wonders. From the vastness of its dream-like deserts and imposing mountain ranges to the colourful riot of its ancient cities, there is something about Morocco to please any visitor. We also love it for the food, the shopping opportunities - plenty of treasures to take home and once-in-a-lifetime finds - and of course, for the warm hospitality. For the first step into this land, we dig deep into Sarah-Jane’s memories of one of its major cities, Marrakesh.
Pictured above: the rooftop of La Sultana, captured by Sarah-Jane.
What boutique hotels sometimes lack in scale is often made up by well, style. There's a particular brand of character a smaller business can harbour - the unique flavour, the attention to detail, the little flourishes, the authenticity. When it comes to boutique hotels, El Fenn is no exception. A great modern take on Moroccan interiors anchors the atmosphere, while its three pools and excellent concierge service really take it to the next level. Soak up the mood-enhancing visual mash-up of beautiful handmade tiles and vintage furniture while you listen to the staff's plentiful tips - all the local knowledge you'll ever need. The El Fenn boutique - a tightly edited selection of the best local designers and artisans where everything, including the wall decor, is on sale - is set within the bar and restaurant area of the hotel, ensuring prime position to stock up on local treats while sipping on a mint tea.
Picture credit: El Fenn
For a more luxurious five star experience, you can’t beat La Sultana. Enriched by opulent interiors and impeccable service, this is sun-bleached perfection, soothing scents and historic provenance in all of their majestic glory. Located in the UNESCO listed Medina World Heritage Site, an afternoon in their luxurious hammam is a must for all senses.
Picture credit: La Sultana
For style and substance, head to Riad Mena - and its bed, bath and 'Beyond': tiered terraces overlooking a garden of palm, citrus and banana trees, the Medina at its doorstep. An easy 10-minute walk to the Jemaa el-Fnaa and the Mellah's spice souqs, it is proof of owner Philomena Schurer Merckoll's globetrotting style and taste. Beautiful interiors and a natural sense of flow takes you from the garden courtyard to pool patio and to the curtain-screened loggia - and beyond - via a maze of staircases. Bohemian, fresh, elegant and unpretentious, it is luxury minus the fuss. We love it for the welcoming atmosphere that can be private or very convivial. With six rooms only, an excellent therapeutic menu (yoga, massages, Japanese callisthenics, detox menu and Tai Chi classes) and sumptuous décor, this is home away from home - you just may never want to leave.
As for the real 'Beyond', you'll find it only forty-five minutes away, in Riad Mena's country outpost, a two-acre permaculture farm at the foot of the Atlas Mountains. The perfect counter-post to its buzzy city sister, this is a nurturing experience in a wonderfully grounding location - perfect for whiling away the days.
Picture credit: Riad Mena & Beyond
A short drive from the hustle and bustle of Marrakesh is a tranquil lodge set in several hectares of cacti and centenary olive trees. There, a pared-back way of living, home-cooked food and sleeping under the stars await you. One of Sarah-Jane’s favourite places to stay, the Berber Lodge is all about refined simplicity. Nested near the village of Oumes, we love it for its deep connection to the preserved Moroccan nature and for the calm of its nine individual lodges laid out in a Berber village feel. Perfect for that digital detox you’ve been craving all year.
Picture credit: Berber Lodge
Immerse yourself in this World Heritage site at sunset, where the square comes alive with storytellers, snake charmers and acrobatics. Street vendors will sell anything from barbecued brochettes to chicken tagines, hot fried fish and snail broth from steaming carts lit by fairy lights, so get ready to try some new flavours and soak up a truly authentic atmosphere!
Picture credit: Wikimedia Commons
Situated in Marrakesh’s bustling Medina, enter through a tiny hole in the wall and you’ll find yourself in a charming garden full of olive trees. Feast in a fresh repast of vegetarian dishes while you sip on homemade lemonade and admire the calming, driftwood-inspired interiors. Finish with a strategic exit through the gift shop.
Picture credit: La Familia
Picture credit: Grand Café de La Poste
All jet-setters in the know will inevitably whisper the name of this modern Moroccan eatery. With a fresh menu and cool rooftop cocktail bar overlooking the spice market, this is a welcoming gastronomic feast sure to hit the picture-perfect spot.
Picture credit: NOMAD Marrakesh
Sitting pretty just opposite the tranquil Majorelle gardens is a concept store known for being the Moroccan answer to Colette in Paris. Whatever you can dream up, 33 Rue Majorelle probably has it: dainty jewellery, wooden furniture, vibrant textiles, modish interiors and Warhol-esque Pop Art. Made by artists and up-and-coming designers alike, expect the cool local treatment on everything from artisanal clothing to unusual homewares.
Picture credit: Majorelle 33
A cool and contemporary take on the traditional items, such as ceramics and kilms, Lrnce offers a new take on the traditional that is amazingly done: the kind of find oversized suitcases are made of. Obsessed.
Picture credit: Lrnce
No trip to Morocco is complete without a pit stop at the fashion fantasyland that is the Marrakesh souk. Set in the bustling energy of the Medina, it's all silk caftans draped in storefronts, heaping piles of soft leather Moroccan slippers and crouching artisans hammering silver into dainty jewellery. A dream for homewares, fashion, knick-knacks and food - plus it's always good fun to haggle with the locals for the perfect wicker basket.
If you are time-poor to soak it all in, be sure to at least stop at Moustapha Blaoui, described as an Alladin's cave of all the best interiors the Souk has to offer. Just down the road is the new carpet showroom by Soufiane - once you see his carpets, you will never go anywhere else. Stop by Jardins Secret, a not-all-that-secret but fun garden amid the bustle, where you can stop and recharge before you hit the shops again. Finally, La Fil d'Or is the best for traditional Baboosh slippers and cotton kaftans.
Picture credit: an artisan's tiles, captured by Sarah-Jane.
A beautifully curated selection of rugs by fellow Australian Cassandra Karinsky. Her new showroom is as breathtaking as her rugs.
Picture credit: Kulchi Rugs
Belgian designer Valérie Barkowski spent decades behind a slew of international brands before falling in love with Marrakesh and opening Dar Kawa, a traditional guesthouse in Morocco. Everything from the bedrooms to her showroom, located a few minutes away, is imbued with her strong aesthetic signature, mixing hand-embroidered details and gorgeous colourful tassels. Save room in your suitcase for this one-stop-shop for luxury bed and bath linens.
Dig deep and bargain hard at the local vintage flea market — find old silver and retro furniture, often sourced from old hotels that are being demolished. The best place to pick up Tamegroute pottery at the best price.
Picture credit: Wikimedia Commons
In the cool industrial district, this vast treasure trove has curated a collection of 20th-century European designer vintage furniture, exciting objects and Belgian bed linen.
Textile designer Randall Bachner produces all his own fabrics. In-store, watch the fabric be hand-loomed in front of you while you shop his collection of shirts, jumpsuits and harem pants.
The word magical may be often overused these days, but magical is the only way to describe a traditional hammam experience. Your trip to Marrakech is not complete until you are slathered in black - and yes, magical - olive-based soap and scrubbed until you are as soft as a baby. We particularly love the day spa at La Sultana for a truly luxurious experience - just one may not be enough.
Gallery 127 is Sarah-Jane’s pick for beautifully curated shows on Moroccan photography. Bonus points for location: the gallery is nestled in an incredible loft-like space which is worth a visit for itself.
Picture credit: Gallery 127
The hottest museum opening for 2017, be stunned by the beautiful building of KO architects while immersed in couture gowns and the history of Yves Saint Laurent's time living in Marrakech. The museum also houses a library of over 5000 books on fashion.
Picture credit: Arcspace.com
Yves Saint Laurent poured his love into these gardens where he lived with Pierre Bergé - and the cacti, bamboo bushes and palm trees will forever thank him. The garden - all 12-acres of botanical paradise - has been gifted to the city of Marrakech, as is now complete with a gift shop chock-full of decorative pillows and handmade jewellery.
Picture credit: Lonely Planet
Perfect for a day of tranquility for when you really need to hit the reset button, this is one special treat you should definitely indulge in. You’ll know it as soon as you arrive - a huge rose garden will greet you, and the scent is unmatchable and unmistakable. A dreamy retreat only 15 minutes from the Medina, this is the ideal spot for speaking the hot desert sun, swim in a tiled 50-meter pool or read a book from cover to cover to get you in full relaxing mood. Whether you choose to spend your day dipping your feet on the pool, taking a long nap under an olive tree or indulging on a beautiful fish barbecue (or maybe all three), a day here is a must to gather your thoughts and leave feeling utterly refreshed.
Picture credit: Beldi Country Club
]]>