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There’s a long, dusty road along the Gibb River that is perfect for getting lost in. The Kimberley in Australia is for those who want adventure and a bit of mystery, spectacular landscapes and horizon-bending red tracks that seem to go on forever.
This area is also home to a great intensity: in the colour of the ranges, the dramatic gorges, the majestic waterfalls and the crystal-clear swimming holes, all on such a monumental scale that it’s as if they were made, centuries ago, for beings far grander and bigger. Since then, the area has seen slow change come and go; in some places, it feels like it has never arrived at all. Over time, the landscape has remained still and unspoilt, save for the shifting rock faces chipped away, bit by bit, by an invisible wind, blasted by scorching heat or the unforgiving force of heavy downpours during the wet season. For every Australian, or willing foreign visitor, this discovery of the great wild country should be a must-add to the bucket list.
The trip started in Darwin before turning west towards Broome.
The Beginning: Darwin
The capital of Australia’s sparsely populated Northern Territory and a former frontier outpost, this is the northernmost, wettest, and smallest of Australia's capital cities. It is the gateway to Kakadu National Park and a port of call for backpackers. It has been built and rebuilt almost from scratch four times, and it’s a fascinating place. Retirees, hippies and young tourists congregate in bars along the harbourfronts while watching lightning storms during the wet season, or at Mindil Beach Sunset Market during the dry season. A visit to the Parap Village Markets will make you feel like you’ve been plucked straight out of Thailand or Indonesia.
Pit stops:
Driving through Gibb River, it doesn’t really matter which way you go; west to east or east to west, the road slowly reveals its wonders, peeling through its relentless dust. The area is quite busy these days, not as daunting or remote as it once was, when exploring the region required a certain sense of bravado. Now, a steady stream of 4WDs and grey-haired nomads make their way along the track, counting blessings and stars in their sun-bleached, weather-battered gear.
No particular skill is really required to drive the Gibb River Road, except knowing how to change a tyre and a shred of mental resilience to brave the wild and leave the comforts of the city. It is essential to keep going forward and be flexible. In places like that, life unfolds, and at least some plans will go out the window. One thing to keep in mind, though, is you can’t travel through during Monsoon season, so you must wait for the dry season to cross it, the best time peaking around July.
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Middle of the Road: between Northern Territory and Western Australia
STAY:
El Questro:Find a welcome respite from the dust at the Emma Gorge Resort at El Questro. Hidden within the Cockburn Ranges, this little oasis of tented cabins and shaded pathways will add comfort to your adventure. Complete with a pool and a restaurant, it’s the perfect pit-stop along the way. Stay in the Station Bungalows and enjoy the excellent tour desk and activities like Barra fishing, hiking, swimming and horse riding.
DO:
Watch the sunset and the spectacular colours of dusk (the top of your car makes for a great viewing platform).
Take a bath in one of the many thermal springs – go early before the crowds arrive.
STAY:
Mornington Wilderness Camp: A naturalist’s paradise, Mornington Wilderness Camp is at the eponymous Wildlife Sanctuary in the heart of the Kimberley. Featuring acres of spectacular landscapes from incredible gorges to stretches of tropical savannah, the camp is a great, comfortable base to explore the region. With so much to do and plenty of nature to see, four nights here go by in a blink.
Stay in the camping ground by the river (spots are limited, so book in advance) or in the tented cabins (expensive, but worth it). The restaurant provides breakfast, picnic lunches and an excellent 3-course dinner. Pack a picnic and canoe up the gorge for a sandwich and a swim in a perfect, bucket-list location. Finish off with a helicopter ride over the canyon for an unforgettable experience.
DO:
See the Boab trees: Stop and marvel at the Boab trees, famous in the region for their swollen trunks, sometimes five metres in diameter. Although a few of these majestic trees can be spotted in parts of Queensland and NSW, they are a feature of the Kimberley and NT landscape. You can only see them outside Australia in Madagascar, mainland Africa, and the Arabian Peninsula.
Make the most of the photo opps (all the time):Stop for a picture at the Willare Bridge Roadhouse, a place seemingly untouched by time where life seems to pass slowly and in a friendly fashion.
Bath Time in Nature: Bathe only when you find a patch of clear crystal water, under the magical swing of the trees.
The best parts of the trip are the light and colour, the dramatic landscapes, and the swims in the gorges, threading through shimmering waters that dance in the baking hot afternoon sun. Spotting freshwater crocs at a distance during the day or, come evening, watching an endless blanket of stars roll over the vast landscape both feel like memories to treasure forever.
The best part is embracing a simpler way of life: walking barefoot in the mud, hanging the washing on a line tied to a tree, sitting on a rock by a creek and watching the sunset, face caked with dirt, eyes wide, smile bright and full. It’s a trip that strips away the excesses but celebrates the little luxuries. It’s roughing it at campsites without hot water, and snuggling in a warm jumper at night (it does get very cold once the sun sets; pack a jumper and socks to sleep in). It’s sleeping in the ‘penthouse suite’ on the car roof or stretching oneself out in the open by the fire. It’s surrendering to the dust.
For the more practical souls, a little planning goes a long way: from either end of the journey you can pick up a 4WD with all camping requirements: tent, chairs, stretchers, cooking utensils. A big food shop, spare petrol and plenty of water are essential before embarking on your red road adventure. We also suggest asking a caterer to pack a couple of prepared meals and a cheese platter (why not?) - it’s always nice knowing there are little pockets of indulgence to look forward to.
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End of the Road: Broome
An outpost city famous for pearling, Broome is a beach resort town in Western Australia on 22km of pristine Indian Ocean coastline. White sands abound for moments of relaxation, while nearby dinosaur tracks revealed in the red rocks during low tide awaken the explorer spirit. Famous for its jaw-dropping end-of-day vistas, people from all walks of life bring their cars and blankets to Cable Beach and set up camp for the Kimberley region's famous sunsets.
STAY:
Billi Resort: relax amongst tropical gardens, tranquil surroundings and raised timber walkways.
Cable Beach Club Resort and Spa: seaside serenity under swaying palm trees - in the perfect place to watch the most spectacular sunsets.
EAT:
The Zookeepers Store:A great place to eat, specialising in local gourmet produce and fresh, house-made delicacies.
Fishing Co-op: Go for the freshest, mouth-watering lobster and mud crabs, caught right within sight.
SHOP:
When in Broome, shop for pearls. Fine pieces showcasing the local wares abound; this is where the world's most beautiful pearls come from, and you'll find stores from many big jewellery houses specialising in it.
Broome's iconic Chinatown,with its unusual mix of colonial and Asian architecture, sells the usual tourist knick-knacks but is also home to dozens of pearl showrooms.
DO:
All images by Sarah-Jane Clarke.
The adventure came to a close 14 days after it began, fresh from a digital detox in its truest sense, meeting indigenous communities and fellow travellers along the way. Tying the experience in with a final bow, the helicopter flight over the Mornington wilderness was the most visibly lasting, genuinely incredible memory, from the earth to the sky, on the road and far beyond.
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